Nearshore processes

Rob Holman

College of Oceanic and Atmospheric Sciences, Oregon State University, Corvallis

• Introduction
• Fluid Dynamics of the Nearshore
  • Conceptual Momentum Balance
  • Incident Band Processes---Shoaling Waves
  • Incident Band Processes---Breaking Waves
  • Incident Waves---Wave Runup
  • Mean Flows
  • Low Frequency Flows
  • Far Infragravity Waves
  • Surf Zone Turbulence
• Sediment Response
  • Small Scale Sediment Response
  • Large Scale Sediment Response
• Fluid-Sediment Feedback---The Problem of Large-Scale Coastal Behavior
• Pathways to Society
• Future Research Directions
• References